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Craft · 6 min read

Fused, half canvas or full canvas: what is inside your jacket

Short answer: fused jackets have their front stiffened with glued interfacing; half-canvas jackets have a sewn-in canvas in the chest and lapel; full-canvas jackets have canvas through the whole front. More canvas means a jacket that breathes better, shapes to your body and lasts longer, at a higher price.

A paper pattern and tailor chalk on navy wool

Fused

The front panels are bonded to a fusible interlining with heat. It is quick to make and keeps the cost down. The jacket looks crisp at first but can feel stiffer, breathes less and may bubble over time if pressed badly or cleaned too often.

  • Best for: occasional wear, tight budgets, suits you will wear a few times.

Half canvas

A floating canvas is stitched into the chest and lapel, with the lower front fused. The lapel rolls naturally instead of lying flat, and the chest moulds to you with wear. It is the usual balance of comfort, durability and price.

  • Best for: wedding suits, business suits you wear every week, Saigon's heat.

Full canvas

Canvas runs through the whole front, held by hand stitching. It is the lightest and most breathable construction and lasts the longest, but takes the most time and costs the most.

  • Best for: suits you want to keep for many years, premium cloth.

How to check

  • Pinch the cloth just below the top button and gently pull the layers apart. If you feel a separate floating layer, there is canvas there.
  • Look at the lapel: a canvassed lapel rolls softly; a fused one often lies flat and pressed.
  • Simply ask the tailor which construction is quoted.

At Draco

Draco's Signature package is half canvas. Ask about other constructions when you choose your cloth.


A few suits Draco has made

See the full collection

The price, before we cut.

Final price depends on the cloth. You get a clear quote before anything is cut, with no surprises later.

Full service details

Quick answers

Is half canvas worth it?
For a suit you will wear often or for a wedding, yes: it breathes better, the lapel rolls naturally and the jacket keeps its shape longer than a fused one.
Which construction is best for hot weather?
Half or full canvas, because they let air through better than glued interfacing, especially combined with a light wool or linen.
How can I tell if a jacket is canvassed?
Pinch the front just below the top button and pull gently: a separate floating layer means canvas.

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